Note: Where pousadas are off the beaten track, Google maps only show the nearest town, and are not an accurate guide to location.
I first came across the Pousada Santa Clara a few years ago when I was looking for a place to stay where I could de-stress on a deserted beach. I didn’t expect to find anywhere quite as wonderful as this, - the original “hidden pousada”. Santa Clara has 11 rooms, scattered amongst tropical gardens- all basic, but en-suite, with verandas, mosquito nets, hammocks and good showers. There are no telephones, cable TV or any reliable internet connection, but people that like this place best don’t come for that. What makes Santa Clara really special is the atmosphere created by the owners, Mark and Charles, the superb restaurant, the relaxing massages, the “library” of books, where you can walk off with a new one to read in return for your old one, and the interesting people you always seem to meet. If you add that to walks along deserted beaches to eat freshly caught lobster and caipirinhas on the beach at sunset, for me that’s about as close to paradise as you can get.
Boipeba is a jewel of an island located amongst the mangrove swamps to the south of Salvador- and southeast of the much better known Morro de Sao Paulo. Boipeba is the main village, and the island is predominantly just miles and miles of deserted unspoilt sandy beaches with the occasional fishing village and small shacks where you can stop for a beer or coconut water and often freshly caught fish and seafood.
There is now an air taxi from Salvador if you want to get to paradise in a hurry. For those who prefer a more leisurely approach get the ferry from Salvador to Bom Despacho, then bus to Valenca and speedboat over to the island. Either way the last stretch will be by boat and you`ll either arrive in the village or right by the beach bars near the Santa Clara. Drop your luggage and make sure you are back in time for that caipirinha at sunset. It is unmissable!
dinner at the Santa Clara restaurant
a moqueca at the Panela de Barro in Boipeba village
lobsters at Guido’s on Cueira beach
casquinho de Siri at Cristiano and Marli’s in Ponta de Castelhano
walks to Tassimirim, Cueira and Morere beaches
a caipirinha every night, at sunset, on Boipeba beach
the tranquillity and natural beauty;
the wonderfully relaxed atmosphere created by Charles and Mark
conversations with fellow travellers at the superb Santa Clara restaurant/bar
the “library” of books left by previous travellers which you can exchange for yours
Try a different place if..
you have difficulty walking, or simply don't enjoy paradise without a mobile phone!
This is really the most magical island, and Santa Clara embodies the warmth of the Bahians, the easy hospitality, the beauty of their environment and the amazing tastes of the region. A wonderful relaxing environment made all the more special by the effort it takes to get there.
Thank you to Charle...
Read on ›› Charles Harrison | london | UK
My stay at Santa Clara was absolutely wonderful. So much so that I'm going to try to return again next year. It was everything you said and more. Charles and Matias really make you feel like it's your home away from home and you come away relaxed and rejuvenated. Beautiful grounds and the food was e...
Read on ›› Kim Via | Atlanta | USA
Heaven personified. Santa Clara has so many attributes it is unbelievable.. the location Boipeba is tranquil, absolutely unspoit with miles of sandy beaches a working village and lots of friendly places. Santa Clara is a haven of delightfulness. We stayed in a guesthouse on stilts set amongst the fo...
Read on ›› Jonathan | Brighton | England