Note: Where pousadas are off the beaten track, Google maps only show the nearest town, and are not an accurate guide to location.
The golden light streams through the windows of my highceilinged whitewashed suite at the Pousada Calypso and once again I smile, knowing I have found another hidden gem: a beautiful Portuguese/Brazilian owned place with great accommodation, set in lush tropical gardens, only minutes from all the action of the famous Quadrado square.
There are 10 suites here, including lofts, bungalows and more standard rooms and all are well maintained with airconditioning, fans, flatscreen TVs and excellent bathrooms. There is also a great sitting/breakfast area full of local art and handicrafts. "No pool though?" "On purpose" replies owner Mari. "We are really close to some of the best beaches in Brazil and that's the place to be". For those who have to be near water there is a lovely gazebo with whirlpool surrounded by tropical plants and birds in the centre of the pousada but I for one would take Mari's advice and take the short stroll down to the sand.
Trancoso lies forty five minutes drive to the south of Arraial d'Ajuda and an hour from the balsa or ferry which brings you over from Porto Seguro. Originally an Indian fishing community it was founded by the jesuits priests in 1583 and the famous church of St John the Baptist of the Indians was built on the site of the orginal 16th construction, at the top of a cliff overlooking a neverending turquoise sea. From here it is just a short walk down to the beaches and beach bars of Nativos, Trancoso and Coqueiros
This is a place which manages to combine the best of the old and the new, the chic and the laid back. Boutique shops now inhabit the colourful former fishermen's cottages round the quadrado or main square which is the focal point of the town and restaurants spread out onto the grass with pretty table cloths and candles and pretty prices to match.
This is a place where you can get as much action as you want- from snorkelling, golf, tenis, mountain biking, horseriding, surfing and kitesurfing to capoeira and forró dance lessons. The nightlife also offers choice with restaurants vying with bars and all night dancing places. But Trancoso also has its gentle side. It is a super friendly place where people talk to you in the streets and the pace of life is much slower than a normal beach resort. For me one of the best things to do is just to go with the flow, sleep in (with earplugs!) and chill out, soaking in the beauty of an extraordinary place as yet unspoilt by mass tourism.
shopping for artesanato (local handicrafts)
the quadrado at fullmoon when it often rises full red
restaurants : Capim Santo, Maritaka and Cantinho Doce
portinha kilo restaurant at lunchtime
Jonas' beach bar
beaches of Rio da Barra and Biribiri
Location right near the quadrado
Excellent value, beautiful accommodation
Friendly knowledgeable owners
Try a different place if..
you need a pool or if you don't want to be near the action
The golden light streams through the windows of my highceilinged whitewashed suite at the Pousada Calypso and once again I smile, knowing I have found another hidden gem: a beautiful Portuguese/Brazilian owned place with great accommodation, set in lush tropical gardens, only minutes from all the action of the famous Quadrado square.
Trancoso lies forty five minutes drive to the south of Arraial d'Ajuda and an hour from the balsa or ferry which brings you over from Porto Seguro. Originally an Indian fishing community it was founded by the jesuits priests in 1583 and the famous church of St John the Baptist of the Indians was built on the site of the orginal 16th construction, at the top of a cliff overlooking a neverending turquoise sea. From here it is just a short walk down to the beaches and beach bars of Nativos, Trancoso and Coqueiros
