Note: Where pousadas are off the beaten track, Google maps only show the nearest town, and are not an accurate guide to location.
What an extraordinary privilege to wake up in the Casarão Alto Mucugê- to the early morning sun streaming through the windows, to the sound of the waves breaking on the beach below and to the uninterrupted view of the sea stretching out in front of you. But then the Casarão (or Big House) is extraordinary in many ways. Designed by world renowned architect Luciano Soares this is a place where rustic meets chic, where Portobello road kitsch meets handmade Indian fabrics and Indonesian and Brazilian handicrafts, all the evidence of owner Eloisa's world travels and eclectic taste.
Perched on top of the cliffs of Alto Mucugê, only a few minutes walk to the beautiful deserted beach of Pitinga in one direction and the town centre of Arraial d'Ajuda in the other there are just 8 apartments here divided between the main house and a separate building just across the grass where many suites have varandas and sea views. In between the two and strategically sitauated is a heated ofuro perfect for lounging on long evenings just looking out to sea.
I came in low season when everything is quieter, the beaches deserted and the best restaurants more relaxed. But for anyone who just wants to chill the pousada is the place to be. A little piece of paradise and another wonderful addition to the Hidden "special collection".
Arraial d’Ajuda was just a sleepy Indian fishing village called Santo Amaro when it was discovered by the Portuguese in the early 1500s. And it probably would have stayed that way had it not been for the discovery of a certain statue and rumours of miracles, which encouraged visitors from far and wide.
These days Ajuda has become a mecca of a different sort - for predminantly college students spreading out from nearby Porto Seguro, attracted by the beaches, bars, boutiques and clubbing. In high season the place buzzes with crowds of young people hanging out and loud music playing in the main street, Rua do Mucugê, and on the beach. If that is not your scene make sure you come off-season, and outside major holidays when the beaches are deserted, the town reverts back to its normal sleepy beautiful state and a much more gentle style of music accompanies your evening.
Pitinga beach- fabulous pink cliffs and great seafood in the beach bars
Stuffed filet of fish on the Praia do Pescador (Fisherman's beach)
Aipim restaurant for a dinner with a ginger caipirinha
Igreja d’Ajuda (the main church)
Location- close to village and beach
Sea views from suites and ofuro hot tub
Huge breakfast table where you can work looking straight out to sea
Personal service from the owner and staff
Try a different place if..
if luxury means flat screen TVs or power showers. Here the luxury is in the atmosphere and the views